Tag: Gardening tips

  • How to Make a Compost Pile

    Making a compost pile in your yard yields one of the most effective and affordable tools for gardeners looking for eco-friendly alternatives to using harmful chemical fertilizers. Even better news – composting is easy. By reducing your yard and household waste, you can create the perfect, nitrogen-rich soil for thriving flower and vegetable gardens for free! So, read on for some of our favorite tips for how to make a compost pile in your yard.

    Green Compost Materials

    As you start the planning to make a compost pile in your yard, note that you will need to create a blend of biodegradable matter that falls into “green” or “brown” categories. Your kitchen is likely to be the primary source of green material, which is typically food waste like vegetable peels, fruit scraps, and coffee grounds. 

    Is all kitchen waste suitable for composting? No. Try to avoid oily foods or meat and dairy. Why? EatingWell explains: “animal products such as dairy, bones, and meat, … can attract pests,” and food like “mayonnaise, peanut butter, salad dressing or vegetable oils” can present difficulties during decomposition. Fish should not be composted either. 

    Experts are often asked if the green material that is sourced from the kitchen should only be organic. While that is a great goal, don’t feel pressured to throw out viable produce scraps just because they weren’t organic. The next time you shop, Real Simple suggests that you “look for ‘pesticide-free’ signage even more so than ‘organic’ labels.”

    Also, before you toss your banana peel or leftover store-bundled greens into the compost pile, be sure to check them over. Real Simple warns: “If you’re making the effort to compost, take extra care that scraps (fruit and veggie peels, and paper bags) are free of labels, twist ties, rubber bands, and other synthetic, non-biodegradable parts.”  

    Yard waste can also be part of your green supplies. Are you looking for a good use for your grass clippings? Keep them for your yard’s compost pile. Are you forever pulling weeds from your garden? The good news is that your compost pile will thank you for them. 

    Brown Compost Elements

    Brown compost materials include carbon-rich elements like wood chips, straw, and pieces of bark. Martha Stewart Living reveals: “Newspaper and hay make good brown matter,” but be sure to shred the newspaper so that “it doesn’t form a mat” and “avoid glossy or colored paper.” Falling autumn leaves can be one of the most readily available forms of carbon available. And the leaves are free! Martha Stewart Living offers this helpful tip for leaf-gatherers: “Since they’re abundant for a short time, … stock up once they fall and use them throughout the winter.”  

    Do you know those cardboard pizza boxes that you cannot place in your blue recycling bins? Good news! As long as you rip the boxes into small pieces, the experts at EatingWell give the thumbs up to including them as your brown compost materials. 

    A Shovel-Full of Neutral Soil

    While not absolutely necessary for starting the composting process, Martha Stewart Living does recommend having at least a small supply of neutral soil on hand. They reason that when neutral soil is added to the middle of the compost pile in your yard, it “helps to protect the compost while supplying the organisms needed for the breakdown process.” 

    Cold Composting Method

    Cold composting, also known as anaerobic composting, is often the easiest and cheapest way to begin to make a compost pile in your yard. The actual method is quite simple. As EatingWell advises: “[Anaerobic composting] involves piling the greens and browns and letting nature handle the decomposition process unaided.” While the compost pile should not smell particularly intense, there will be decay, so choose a spot away from your home and your yard’s leisure spaces, just in case. And although starting a composting pile takes relatively little time, the entire decomposition process using cold composting can take up to two years. 

    Aerobic Composting

    Aerobic composting is very similar to the cold composting approach, but it requires an infusion of oxygen into the process, which increases the internal temperature of the pile. The higher temperature then speeds up the decomposition process. While this sounds like it could be time-consuming, it really isn’t. According to EatingWell, this just “requires turning (or mixing) the materials every so often to give it exposure to oxygen.” A standard garden shovel will do the trick.  

    How to Make a Compost Pile in Your Yard

    Start by laying down a bottom layer of your brown materials. Because this forms your base, you’ll want it wide enough to support the layers above it without collapse. The next section should be from your collection of green biodegradable material. Expert gardener and herbalist Leslie Bish recommended to Real Simple that the general composting rule is to employ a “two-to-one ratio of brown to green materials” as you build the pile. When you reach what is projected to be the middle of your compost pile, shovel in a small amount of neutral soil. 

    Your yard’s compost pile should be kept damp, but you do not want it to be waterlogged. Heavy bouts of rain can not only impede decomposition but displace some of your biodegradable material. The last thing you want is for your pile to fall and spread to other areas of your yard. If you live in a region with abundant rainfall, consider putting up a protective tarp to keep the pile from being soaked. The pros at EatingWell also suggest “[adding] sawdust to dry it” as needed.  

    If it looks like your compost pile is not beginning the decomposition process after a reasonable amount of time, it might need some attention. Leslie Bish advised Real Simple that in these cases, “‘It might be too dry, or not have enough nitrogen, so add a little water with the hose and more green material.’” 

    When is the Compost Pile Ready For Use? 

    If you chose the turning (aerobic) method for maintaining your compost pile, you might have compost ready for use within six months unless you experience a sustained winter. Cold compost piles can take up to two years before they are viable as organic fertilizer. In general, Martha Stewart Living recommends not using the compost until it is “dark brown, free of recognizable ingredients, and safe to smell.” While you might be eager to start using your new soil enhancer, it is essential to wait until decomposition is finished. Otherwise, professionals warn, it could prove dangerous to your trees or garden plants.

  • Tips for Planting a Window Box

    Planting a window box filled with colorful blooms and greenery is a terrific, low-maintenance way to enhance your house’s exterior instantly. It’s also an appealing option for people living in condos or apartments without outdoor space who want to enjoy the benefits of a garden. If you are intrigued by the possibilities, read on as we reveal tips for designing and planting a lushly beautiful window box

    Choose the Right Window Box

    Choosing the best window box for your needs is critical. Not only do you want it to fit your preferred space and look stylish, but you need to be able to hang it safely. Better Homes & Gardens cautions: “Don’t underestimate how heavy a window box can be—it is filled with soil and plants, and gets even heavier when watered.” The Magazine recommends a window box built from “a hardwood like redwood or cedar rather than pine, which rots quickly, and then securing the box with a window box bracket like the Panacea Holdall Flower Box Holder.” 

    If you are concerned that a wood box might be too heavy to hang from your window or balcony railing, Southern Living advises that “[you can significantly reduce weight by using fiberglass window boxes ….” Fiberglass is a good weather-resistant, affordable option for anyone who lives in areas that see significant rainfall or snow and has windows or railings that aren’t protected by a roof or awning.

    Would you prefer a wrought iron option for your window box? While it does require a splurge, The Spruce loves the “H. Potter Copper and Wrought Iron Window Box.” This 30-inch window box has a higher price tag than many, “but rather than corrode, this 30-inch hand-crafted window box will only get better with time since it’s made from rust-resistant stainless steel and covered in a copper finish.” The wrought-iron frame is also weather-resistant, and the mounting and brackets make it easy to remove whenever necessary. 

    Check for Drainage

    No matter which container you buy, it must have proper drainage so excess water can flow out of the box’s reservoir when it gets too full. If you have the tools and the know-how, drilling holes in wood or fiberglass products is a snap. If you don’t have the tools on hand or want a steel or ceramic planter option, consider purchasing a pre-drilled product. 

    You’ll also want to leave some space between the window box and the side of your house, condo, or apartment. How much room? Southern Living suggests leaving “at least 1/2-inch between the window box and the side of the house for water to drip through,” especially if the home is clad with wood siding.  

    Buy Potting Mix

    When planting a window box or any container garden, you’ll want to buy potting mix rather than potting soil. The Spruce explains: “[Its] special combination of ingredients ensures that the mix retains moisture” and won’t compact around tender roots. Experts also believe that potting mix gives you more control over disease or weeds than you would have with soil.  

    Follow the Thriller-Filler-Spiller Rule

    When mapping your window boxes, you want to create an arrangement of blooms and greenery that pops against the colors of your home. And all of your plantings should have similar sun, shade, and watering requirements; otherwise, you are likely to struggle to balance the needs of each of the plants. Martha Stewart Living recommends following the “thriller-filler-spiller” rule for anyone planting a window box. The design guideline “calls for a tall, striking plant (“thriller”) centered in the box and serving as the focal point; smaller, complementary plants (“filler”) on each side and the bottom; and plants that flow over the edges (“spiller”).”  

    Determine Your Growing Conditions

    Will the plants in your window box have access to full sun (meaning more than six hours per day of direct sunlight), partial sun, or full shade? These growing conditions will profoundly impact which flowers, succulents, or vegetables will thrive after planting. If your site is particularly sunny, Martha Stewart Living suggests looking into “colorful flowering plants, like calibrachoas, a perennial that’s commonly seen in shades of violet, blue, pink, red, magenta, yellow, bronze, and white.” ‘Katrina’ African iris, which features “exotic flowers [that] top long, spiked leaves,” and ‘Sallyfun Deep Ocean’ salvia, which is known to be fragrant and a butterfly magnet, are among Better Homes & Gardens favorite full sun “thrillers.” 

    If you are planting a window box that will have partial sun, gardening expert Melinda Myers reports to Martha Stewart Living that “most petunias also do well in full to partial sun,” and “heliotrope has fragrant flowers that hummingbirds and butterflies love.” Myers is also a fan of pentas (as are butterflies) because it “blooms all season long and prefers full to partial sun.” Finally, Meyers loves “summer snapdragon, which (as its name implies) is perfect for the warm-weather season and features upright plants that are available in several colorways.”  

    Trailing lobelia is a great cascading option because while it thrives in full sun, it will still produce bold blue flowers (or purple, pink, or white, depending on which cultivar you plant) with partial shade. It’s an attractive option for planting below tall “thrillers.” Lotus vine, alyssum, verbenas, and plectranthus also offer significant spread for a beautiful cascading effect. Spiky cordyline is also not as finicky about sun exposure, with this “thriller” working with most soil types under full sun to partial shade conditions.

    Container gardens and window boxes dry out faster than in-ground gardens. Depending on the materials window boxes are made of, the potting mix can be super-heated, particularly in areas that experience significant heatwaves. Drought-tolerant plants are often a better fit, especially in summer. Expert Melinda Myers suggests to Martha Stewart Living that dipladenia and zinnias are terrific options because they come in a variety of brilliant colors, “profusion and zahara have good disease resistance,” and “icicles licorice, also known as helichrysum, [is] a great heat- and drought-tolerant plant.”

    Add Foliage

    While flowers can take some time to become glorious, leafy greens immediately have a lush look. Martha Stewart Living recommends planting foliage in your window box as they “do a good job of providing a background to the showier plants that will be a planter’s focal point.” If you are stumped for which greenery to choose, the Magazine suggests coleus because while “it’s usually thought of as a shade-loving plant, coleus comes in varieties, such as Purple Prince, that do well in full sun.”  

    Plant by Season

    If you live in an area of the United States that has dramatic shifts in temperature or experiences frost, Southern Living advises those planting a window box to grow blooms according to season. For example, the Magazine recommends planting “million bells [a colorful “filler”], lobelia, bacopa, twinspur, snapdragons, violas, nasturtiums, and flowering kale” for areas enjoying cool weather. When warm weather arrives, Southern Living suggests switching to “lantana, verbena, begonias, angelonia, impatiens, coleus, sweet potato vine, fanflower, narrowleaf zinnia, and Wave petunia” to beat the heat successfully.

  • How to Arrange Flowers Like a Pro

    Flower arrangement is an art that has had a recent resurgence of interest that includes workshops and a wealth of Instagram features. Millennials feel the draw to craft a personal treasure rather than picking something up at the supermarket. You can use flowers from the shop or your garden to create the perfect arrangement. Go from basic bouquets to masterpieces with these tips. 

    Explore various shapes and sizes

    Arranging flowers depends on the size and shape of the vase, as well as the blooms you plan to use. Keep in mind that a flared opening helps stems lean naturally. Mason jars are a staple in most DIY projects and available in a variety of sizes. They are especially suited for boho-style wildflowers. With a wide mouth and narrow neck, a vintage-style milk bottle is ideal for lush looks or simple arrangements of at least three statement blooms. Bowl and square containers can be a bit tricky at first, but the results are worth it. For a bowl vase, use Gerbera daisies or orchids. Cut stems at an angle to match the height of the vase. With a square vase, consider creating a grid using duct tape spanning the wide mouth and keeping heavier flowers in the center of the arrangement for balance. For a glam style, pedestal vessels are superb. Use floral foam to maintain hydration and placement. If you’re in a rush or prefer minimal work, a bud vase is a solid option. Use a single bloom or choose up to three, combining different shapes and sizes for an impactful arrangement. 

    Selecting flowers and leaves

    Every season has a few star blooms that dazzle any arrangement. Spring offers sweet peas, calla lilies and cherry blossoms. Fall is represented by carnations, begonias and petunias. Winters persevere with the help of primrose and sweet pea. Summer delights with dahlias, freesia and chrysanthemums. Filler flowers, such as baby’s breath and daisies, add unique visual texture to an arrangement. Leaves include Italian Ruscus, known for its narrow, tear-shaped fronds and ivy for romantic or vintage touches. Leatherleaf ferns offer a dramatic backdrop for bolder flowers and moss delights modern or whimsical arrangements. For gorgeous looks, select five types of flowers and two types of leaves. 

    Placing blooms and fronds

    Gather scissors, a vase, water and plant food. Remove extra leaves for clean stems. Hold the flowers up to your vase and trim to between one and one-and-a-half times the height of the vase. Cut the stems diagonally. Fill half the vase with water and add a scoop of plant food. Some people also use chicken wire as a base. Place statement flowers in the center and work secondary blooms around them. Adjust as needed. 

    From centerpieces and accents to mantel décor, a flower arrangement brightens up any space and invites compliments.

  • Ask a Pro Q&A: Starting an English Cottage Garden

    Garden season is here and we can’t wait to fill our backyards with flowers, sculptures, and so much more! Hope A. in South Carolina is a garden-lover and wants to style her yard after an English cottage garden. We loved the idea so we sent her question to Dream Team member and outdoor design expert Carson Arthur for his best advice, because the more you know, the more you grow!

    Ask a Pro Q&A: Starting an English Cottage Garden - bhgrelife.com

    Q: I would love to have a cottage garden in front of my home here in South Carolina! Unfortunately, my house is built on a slab and the garden area is mostly in the shade. Right now I’m growing dwarf gardenias, hosta, calla lilies, astilbe, Japanese painted ferns princess lily, and colocasia. The current plants are dispersed throughout the space and look sparse even though the space is small. What can I do to bring my garden together and create an English-inspired look? Thanks!

    -Hope A.

    A: Everyone always assumes that an English cottage garden is all about the cute plants. The truth is, this style of garden started in part because of the terrible rocky soil that they were grown on. It sounds like you have lots of plants, but now it’s time to start adding the rocks! You can create extra depth in the garden using large and small stones. Consider building tiers using the stones as well. Just make sure to go with moss-covered rocks or rocks that are clearly aged. There are two crucial things to remember when adding rocks to the landscaping. First, the bottoms of the rocks should be under the level of the soil so that they look like they have always been there. Next, plant in the pockets of the stones… just like you would see in nature! Happy gardening!

    -Carson A.