Tag: garden tips

  • Planning Your Spring Vegetable Garden

    The key to a successful spring vegetable garden lies in the planning stage.  Once you have the spot picked out, you have to prepare the ground, create a layout, get vegetable ideas and buy supplies and plants. For the best chance of success, choose easy-to-grow vegetables like lettuce and zucchini. You can expand your horizons by adding some herbs and fruit plants, as well.

    If you are starting the plants from seeds, you will have to have the right containers to start them indoors. Otherwise, buy young plants with established root systems. Depending on what USDA plant hardiness zone you live in, certain vegetable plants will be recommended for spring planting.  Martha Stewart explains that warm-season crops like beans, tomatoes and eggplants do best in the heat, and some vegetable plants have longer growing seasons than others.

    planting seedsGrowing Plants From Seeds

    Martha Stewart also advises gardeners to check the plant-by dates when purchasing high-quality seed packets to ensure that they are for the current year. You can use any type of container for planting seeds, but it must have drainage holes. You may wish to plant several seeds in larger pots, which is a convenient way to start them. Another choice is to use planting trays, which are divided into smaller sections.

    Use regular potting soil, a sterile, soilless mix, a seed-starting mix or make your own if you are a skilled gardener or growing plants with specific requirements. Do not add compost or topsoil into the containers at this stage, because either can ruin your seeds.

    Put your potting mix in a large bucket and add some water until it is moist. Place the containers on newspaper, fill them up with the mix and tamp down gently. Dig out the seed holes with a pencil, making them twice as deep as the seeds are thick.

    The containers can be covered with clear plastic wrap to encourage germination, though you may wish to poke a few holes in the plastic to avoid mold growth. Place the containers or trays in a warm room by a sunny window. You can also use grow lights, provide the full UV spectrum of light to your seedlings. Mark the containers with labels so you don’t mix up the plants. Check them daily and water as needed – you can also add some diluted fertilizer when they begin to sprout.

    Making a Garden Blueprint

    Take some graph paper to draw out your garden plan before you do any digging. Vegetable plants like tomatoes and corn can grow quite tall, and you don’t want them to block the sunlight from their companions. You do not have to start with a large number of plants, because you can also add more later if you have the space.

    The number of inches required between the same kinds of vegetable plants varies, and you can find vegetable spacing guides online. Zucchini needs about 24 to 28 inches, while spinach only needs 2 to 4. If you are planting multiple rows of vegetables, these distances also vary; check the guide or your seed packet for this information, as well. You will need room to walk back and forth between your plants if planting in a traditional rowed garden.

    You can dig stakes into the ground at the ends of your garden rows, and connect each one with string. This will help you dig the plant holes in a straighter line. If any of the plants came with information tags, stick those in the ground alongside them.

    Gardening toolsPreparing The Garden Soil

    If you want to transplant seedlings outdoors, plan ahead by placing them outside two weeks before the planting. Leave them out for a few hours at first, and gradually build this up to strengthen them. Your plants will need a sunny garden that gets from six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day.  Do not choose a spot that gets a lot of wind, because this could damage the plants and keep pollinators like bees away.

    The best kind of soil for vegetable plants is packed with nutrients. The best way to ensure this is to mix in organic matter like compost or manure when the soil is moist (not wet). Check the soil for rocks and weeds, and rake them off and away. Then, use a shovel to loosen up the soil, digging down to 8 to 12 inches.

    Spread at least 2 to 3 inches of compost or manure onto the soil. You can work it into the earth if you like, but this is not necessary. You can level out the soil with a rake, or build up the beds slightly. Now you can dig the holes and start getting those plants in the ground. Before you know it, you will have plenty of fresh produce to bring to the table.

  • Coordinating Your Garden to Your Home

    While architects have often noted that landscape architecture has lagged the modernist building movement since the late 1930s, these days, there’s consensus that your garden should, if not match, at least coordinate with your home.

    An English country garden may work just as well with a Cape Cod style home as it does with a thatched Tudor cottage. However, it really doesn’t suit a Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired angular home with clean lines and lots of glass.

    Try to match your garden’s style to your home when it comes to size, color, and style for a clean, comforting appearance.

    Big custom made luxury house with nicely trimmed and landscaped front yard

    Size

    If you’ve got a tiny little porch, don’t flank your home’s entryway with massive flower pot sentinels. That will only emphasize how small your porch is. Similarly, if your front yard is the size of a pocket handkerchief, perhaps bursts of color from small petaled trailing plants like lobelia are a better idea than a hibiscus bush. Save the big, showy flowers for those you can train to grow on a trellis against the house, like a clematis.

    If, on the other hand, you’ve got a huge front yard, you may want to create interest by designing winding pathways that delineate different kinds of gardens: flower from herb, annual from perennial, rose garden from mixed flowers, Zen garden from rock garden. Also, you’ll want to scale up the size of your plants as well. If you’re working with a big space, you can invest in plants like hostas and hydrangeas, which will grow and grow and grow until you cut them back.

    Try to scale the size of your plantings to the size of your home. If tiny and perfect works for your house, it’ll work for your garden too. Make sure, if you have a small home on a small lot, that you keep both evergreen and deciduous trees trimmed. Letting them get too tall isn’t just an aesthetic faux pas, it can be dangerous, given the severity of many storm events.

    home with nicely trimmed and landscaped front yard

    Color

    Repeating your home’s paint colors in your garden’s foliage or flowers is one way to link interior and exterior. Think of the house color as the flower painting’s backdrop. You can echo your home’s color scheme, or you can choose contrasting colors to make your garden pop.

    The easiest house colors to integrate with foliage are, of course, greens and browns. But you can use your garden flowers to both amplify and contrast with your home’s exterior wall color.

    White has a commanding presence in a garden, and some landscape gardeners think it should be used with care, to create a focal point or unite a space. Trim and roof colors should be repeated throughout a garden, with white or off-white plantings as accents or unifying elements with any house that has white or cream in its paint scheme.

    modern house with matching style garden

    Style

    The warm texture of a red brick house with gingerbread trim and deep overhangs calls for one kind of garden and a specific range of plants, while the neutral concrete and glass angles of a modern, custom-built home would look silly adorned with petunias.

    If you’ve bought a heritage home, honor its stature with traditional and vintage garden designs. Make use of arbors and hanging baskets on the porch. Flank a colonial style home’s front door with large planters bursting with trailing flowers. Create a rose or hydrangea or French herb garden. Build a latticework gazebo.

    Landscape architects suggest using foliage as building blocks with modern design, and some of the best examples of this are of rectangular planters filled with wild and spikey decorative grasses. The abundance, movement, and deep true colors of the grasses provide contrast to the neutral color scheme. They also supply texture, movement, and a wildness that works well with a very precise and sometimes coldly confrontational architectural style.

    Modern architecture lends itself very well to xeriscaping, and once a xeriscape lawn has been designed and planted, it matches the spirit of modern architecture: clean lines, low maintenance, and a lack of ornamentation. Vertical gardens and green walls work very well with modern architecture too, providing a shot of color and free form design, adding a bit of warmth and interest to hard edges. Planning, planting, nurturing, and appreciating your garden should be a voyage of exploration and discovery, something you perfect over the course of years. Don’t be afraid to try new colors, plants, and accessories to see what works and what doesn’t. Most importantly, don’t forget that gardening can be a year-long passion. After all, the important work gets done in winter: planning, poring over seed catalogues, and researching patio stones, water treatments, wind chimes, and lawn furniture.

  • Ask a Pro: How to Get Rid of Honeysuckle

    Can outdoor design expert and Dream Team member Carson Arthur help one reader whose garden has been taken over by teaching her how to get rid of honeysuckle? Find out in the latest edition of Ask a Pro!

    Ask a Pro: How to Get Rid of Honeysuckle - bhgrelife.com

    Q. Honeysuckle has taken over my yard and is killing my lilac bushes and azaleas. How can I get rid of it without hurting my plants?

    –Sophie R.

    A. I wish I had better news for you about honeysuckle. Unfortunately it’s very aggressive, as you already know.

    Without using chemicals, the only way to remove honeysuckle from your garden is to rip it out under the ground. I know some people that have had success using extra-strength vinegar, but that could actually hurt your existing plants. Best of luck!

    -Carson A.

  • Ask A Pro Q&A: Carson Arthur’s Outdoor Sweeps Edition

    Missed our Facebook Q&A on the best outdoor design, advice, and gardening tips with outdoor design expert and Dream Team member Carson Arthur? Never fear! We’ve gathered up the answers from the expert himself in our latest Ask a Pro. 

    Ask a Pro: Carson Arthur’s Outdoor Sweeps Edition - bhgrelife.com

    Q: I am trying to eradicate spearmint from a very small garden, but it is covered. I’ve put most of my plants in pots so the roots don’t get mixed with the mint. I just keep pulling the mint. Is there a better strategy?

    –Tara P.

    A: Oh no. That’s evil stuff! Unfortunately, the mint sends roots under the ground making it tough to pull out. Instead, bury the entire area with 7 layers of newspaper (working around the plants you want to save). Cover the newspaper with mulch and voila! An effective mint barrier that will smother the noxious weed and safely biodegrade into the garden.

    –Carson Arthur

    Q: Hi Carson. I recently planted a jalapeno plant as well as some cilantro in my small garden. Do you have any tips on how to best grow these plants specifically? Thanks!

    —Victoria D.

    A: Hot! As in, they love it hot! The more heat the better. Consider doing a 6″ cardboard ring around the bottom of pepper plant to allow it as much exposure as possible without any competition from other plants.

    –Carson Arthur

    Q: I have a 12-foot square area that we have tilled that is literally sandy soil. Mostly sand and rocks. What will grow here? We can’t plant grass because there is just no way to get rid of the rocks. Help!

    —Pam M.

    A: Tricky problem. I would consider doing a mass planting of some decorative grasses. They will handle the soil and give you amazing fall colour. Look for Northern Rye as a great option.

    –Carson Arthur

     

    Check back for Part 2!